Changing Impressions

The large statue of Buddha in Nara.

While here in Japan, I have experienced many occurrences that could be described as examples of “Japanese culture.” Although in America, things such as temples, driving on the opposite side of the road, and the Japanese language itself seem foreign, to someone who has previous knowledge of Japanese culture and customs, these things appear ordinary. Studying Japan through manga and anime, academic courses, and outside research, I had become accustomed to the things I would no doubt encounter during my stay here. However, it was not these sorts of large, overarching stereotypes that caught me by surprise. It was the little, menial tasks and items that amazed me.

Considering the small amount of land available and the high population density, it is obvious that there is limited space. Yet simply having previous knowledge did not prepare me for the realization that almost everything in Japan is miniature. From the cars, the houses, to even the pets, plenty of things in Japan are kept small in order to take up as less space as possible.

Even at the Kobe harbor, there was a serious lack of benches.

I knew that Japan was a very health conscious country. With such strict recycling rules, you would assume there would be plenty of trash cans available to throw things away. That is incorrect, as most public trashcans are only near vending machines or outside convenience stores. Compared to most Western countries, there are trash cans placed almost every other street in the larger cities. Similarly, since many Japanese people enjoy being outside, whether it’s riding a bike or walking near a temple, you would assume there would be plenty of places to sit and relax. However, during my stay in Japan, I have found the lack of benches to be quite perplexing.

But perhaps the most surprising detail I have discovered about Japan is that despite the healthy diet and the fact that most people bike rather than own a car, many restaurants in Japan still host a smoking section. Unlike America, where smoking is prohibited in most public locations, Japan still supports public smoking. There are even special locations designated “smoking areas” at places like train stations and near temples or shrines. I have lost track of how many times I have gone to a restaurant and seen a person smoking with children present at their table.

As my stay in Japan draws to a close, I think back on what I have experienced here. There were many instances that supported the stereotypes of Japan I had already formed. It was the little things that surprised me. Yet the only reason why I was able to see all of these points is because I have lived here for almost four months and have become adjusted to the Japanese way of life. Simply visiting a place on vacation, you cannot truly notice those sorts of minute details.

Free Choice: Hanami

Himeji Castle.

A few weeks ago, I visited Himeji Castle before it closed for renovation. Since the last day it was open for the spring was a warm and sunny day, the castle and grounds were packed with Japanese and foreigners alike. While a large portion of people explored the castle, many simply sat in the open courtyard and enjoyed the flower festival, or hanami.

Construction of Himeji Castle started in 1333 by Norimura Akamatsu. In 1581, Hideyoshi Toyotomi built a three-storied castle. Then in 1601, Terumasa Ikeda rebuilt the castle as five stories. The castle remained relatively untouched for 400 years, and then in 1999, it was registered on UNESCO's World Heritage list (Himeji Castle).

Exploring the castle, I learned about its history, structural aspects, as well as cultural tidbits about Japan. It was not until I reached the top and looked out upon the courtyard that I was able to comprehend the popularity of hanami. Seeing the mass of people sitting on tarps or blankets made me realize what a cultural tradition the flower viewing festival is.

People enjoying the sakura in the castle's courtyard.

During hanami, family and friends meet and spend time under the flowers. They drink, eat, and share stories while enjoying and respecting nature. These outings usually last a couple of hours. Since hanami is a celebration of nature and flowers, it occurs during March and April, when most flowers are blossoming.

As American is a melting pot of different cultures, hanami has reached even America’s shores as well. For example, places in the US that participate in hanami are Washington DC and New York. A few years ago, I went with a group of friends to the Brooklyn Botanical Garden for hanami. There were not as many people as when I went to Himeji Castle, but there was a mixture of different ages and ethnicities. Perhaps part of the lack of popularity in the US has to do with the fast paced life of many Westerners. Another reason could be that since Japan has many old traditions, compared to America’s short history, the Japanese are more likely to connect with their past and appreciate their connection with nature.

Free Choice: Anime and Manga

Pokemon Center Tokyo, a store that specializes in Pokemon paraphernalia.

Perhaps one of the more popular Japanese exports, alongside sushi, j-pop, and small cell phones, is anime and manga. Numerous countries have translated this Japanese form of media into their native languages in order to share and distribute it. There are also plenty of fan groups who are up to date in scanlating (scanning and translating manga) and subbing (adding subtitles to anime) for online communities. Nowadays, anime and manga have become a global phenomenon.

Of course there are differences between anime and manga versions of various countries. Many countries whose language reads left to right will often mirror the manga pages so that it reads like that country’s normal comic layout. Similarly, what Japanese considers appropriate for a certain age group, in particular for younger children, may not be the same as other countries’ censorship. For example, some companies will not only dub an anime but will also edit it to fit the desired audience for that country.

The explosive popularity of anime is partly due to the fact that many series appeal to a wide range of audiences. Whereas many cartoons in America are considered specifically for either children or adults, many anime series attract a range of audience age groups.

One example of a type of anime that appeals to numerous audiences is the shounen genre. Shounen, which can be translated as “young boy,” is aimed at male youths. These shows are usually action and/or adventure stories which follow a male character with whom the audience can sympathize and connect. While this may sound like simply another children’s cartoon, there is also an adult fan base for shounen anime, usually older women.

A store in Den Den Town, the anime and electronics center in Osaka.

The reason for this popularity with older women would be because of doujinshi, or fan comics. Many doujinshi are BL, or Boys Love, which depicts heterosexually portrayed male characters in anime and manga as participating in homosexual relationships. Many doujinshi are independent of the original manga creator. They are simply a way that fans can express their love for the works and to artistically show their desires of what would never actually happen in the series.

Free Choice: Meal Time

The act of eating is considered a bonding time in Japan. While many other countries partake in family meals, the Japanese culture has more regulations and customs concerning food. Family members usually sit around a table, either a Western style table with chairs or a Japanese low table with cushions, and share stories about their day or current events. This aspect is very similar to Western customs.

However, before and after a Japanese meal, you are expected to show your respect and appreciation for the food. Before eating, you say “itadakimasu,” which colloquially means “I gratefully receive.” This word is the humble expression of the verb “to recieve” (“morau”), which is used when describing your own actions in relation to someone of a higher position. Then once you finish eating, you say “gochisosama (deshita)” to signify “thank you for the food.” Families in the West may say prayers before a meal or informally thank the cook, but meals in Japan are seemingly more formal.

An average dinner made by my host mother: green tea, lo mein, soup, and sliced apples.

Compared to the Western style of eating course by course, during a Japanese meal, all of the food is brought out at once. The meal usually consists of one main dish, a fish or protein of some sort, and is surrounded by side dishes. These side dishes can range from rice, vegetables, soup, and so on. It is common practice to eat a little bit from each dish in some sort of order. As I quickly learned during my first few meals with my host family, my host mother thought I didn’t like a certain food if I completely ate one dish first, then moved onto another. Eating leisurely and balancing between eating dishes is an important key in Japanese dining etiquette.

Another meal by my host mother: green tea, fish, rice, soup, and vegetables with egg.

Of course knowing how to properly use chopsticks helps too. It is considered bad manners to share chopsticks. In the West, many people do not think twice about eating off another person’s offered fork. But in Japan, it’s better to place the offered food directly onto the other person’s plate. And if the main dish is noodles, don’t think twice about slurping. The louder you slurp, the more delicious you think the food is. That way you can show the chef your appreciation without even saying a word.

Essay on Leibovitz and Natchwey

Annie Leibovitz and James Natchwey both communicate through the medium of a camera. As professional photographers, it is their job to take pictures. The purpose of their photography is to capture the essence of the accompanying written article. In this aspect, the photographs are consumer products for an intended audience. Yet in the films Annie Leibovitz: Life through a Lens and War Photographer, the art of photography is described as much more than just a picture in a magazine.

Picture of Robert F. Kennedy Jr., George Clooney, Julia Roberts, and Al Gore taken by Leibovitz. (Vanity Fair)

Leibovitz mainly takes pictures of famous people or events. Working for large companies such as Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair, the main purpose of the articles and photographs is news and gossip. As described in the movie, Leibovitz is constantly aware of props, scenery, body position, lighting, and make-up. She has the luxury of changing the composition of the photograph during the shoot in whatever way she deems fit.

Picture of El Salvador, 1984 taken by Natchwey. (JamesNatchwey.com)

James Natchwey, on the other hand, does not have the convenience of changing the picture. War photography must be taken quickly during the action or else the image will be lost. In the movie, his style of photography was portrayed as voyeuristic. He even explained that in order to be a successful war photographer, you have to “be a loner.” This is very different to Leibovitz’s amiable connection with her subjects. That’s not to say that Natchwey is completely detached from his subjects. He made it a point to ask his subjects for permission as well as interview them about their circumstances.

Both photographers explained that it is important to actively participate in what you photograph. This can be done by living together with the subjects, such as when Leibovitz went on tour with the Rolling Stones, or by expressing the subjects’ feelings to the normally ignorant public, such as when Natchwey captured his subjects’ grief during war.

Japanese People

The person who I photographed is my host mother. The reason why I chose her was so that I could learn more about her. Since she barely speaks any English, I sometimes have trouble communicating with her. Using photography in this manner, I was able to nonverbally converse what I normally was unable to express. When I explained the purpose of this exercise, I told her that I wanted to take candid pictures of her doing normal activities. In order for the pictures to appear natural, I tried not to move around or use the flash, so as not to disrupt her concentration.

My host mother practicing calligraphy.

My host mother is unemployed, takes care of all the laundry, cooking, cleaning, and manages most of the business that occurs within the house. She fits into the category of the stereotypical “Japanese housewife.” Without any children to take care of, she devotes her spare time to a calligraphy class, a computer class, a gospel choir, and a bible reading class in order to learn English. Whenever we go out to the public bath, she is very vocal when speaking with neighbors and friends.

Commenting on how I want to dye my hair a similar color as the flowers.

This past Sunday, my host parents took me to the Kyoto Prefecture Botanical Garden. With my host father acting as a translator, my host mother explained how the plum blossoms are currently in bloom and will soon grown fruit.

My Neighborhood

The view from my balcony.

While studying in Japan, I am participating in a home stay. A large portion of Japan does not have numerical addresses, though you’re more likely to find numbered buildings in the major cities or urban areas. Much like how America is divided into states, counties, and towns, places in Japan are named in a similar manner. The names start with the neighborhood, usually designated by -chou, then the town, -shi, and finally the prefecture, such as Kyoto, Osaka, or Tokyo. (Fedorowicz, Steven, class discussion) Following this style, I currently live in Sanbombashi, Yawata-shi, Kyoto.

According to my host father, many of our neighbors associate themselves with Yawata-shi rather than specifically with Sanbombashi. The closest train station is the Yawata-shi station, and the nearby City Office and Cultural Center are for the Yawata-shi area. Yawata-shi has a population of about 7,400 people. (Yawata-shi City Office)

A tanuki in Yawata-shi.

Downtown Yawata-shi has plenty of restaurants, clothing stores, and small business along the main road. Like many Japanese restaurants or bars, many of the restaurants in Yawata-shi have the standard raccoon statue. These tanuki welcome customers and invite them to enter the restaurant. Other places of interest in downtown Yawata-shi include a tatami shop, a bakery, and a couple of book stores, just to name a few.

First Thoughts About Japan

Tezuka Osamu World at Kyoto Station.

Much of my previous knowledge about Japan came from anime and manga, or Japanese cartoons and comics. My first taste of “Japanese culture” was like many other Americans of my generation. During my childhood, I caught glimpses of dubbed episodes of Sailor Moon and Pokemon in the afternoons after school. I recognized that these cartoons were similar to American cartoons, yet there was some unspoken aspect that made them particularly exotic. As a child, I could never place my finger on what differentiated anime and Western cartoons. Now that I have more experience and have watched numerous series and genres of anime, I can see the differences and similarities more clearly.

After arriving in Japan, many of my expectations have been met. I have seen young people wearing identical, pristine uniforms on their way to school. While riding the train, I have noticed that most commuters either spend their time catnapping, or pull out their phones or portable gaming systems. Simply eating in the cafeteria at school has reaffirmed the staples of noodle and curry dishes in the Japanese diet. I have become familiar with all of these stereotypes through anime, and although cartoons and comics may not be the most accurate source of information, all stereotypes originate from a small drop of truth.

McDonald's at Kansai Gaidai.

Of course I have also noticed the Western influence within Japan. The McDonald’s on campus is a prime example. Even as I ventured away from the foreign populace centered at Kansai Gaidai, I still see familiar signs and brand names along the streets. Similar to how anime has crossed into Western culture, so too have Western institutes become a normal part of Japanese life.